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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.